I have not had enough time to try all of the things you have told me to check out. we will likely need to increase your mechanical adv so you have enoughtotal adv. do the same test at around 1600 rpm and 2400 rpm. you can runn a lot because of your low compression but you should not need a lot. this will tell us the optimum idle timing without it being more than necessary. at some point your rpm will no longer increase in big jumps.dont touch the fuel mix screws or idle sppeed during this process. note bhow many rpm your engine speed increases for each 4 degree increasse. increase timing at idle by 4 degree inccrements. set idle screws every time you set timing as chargedbill suggested. your car should idle smooth at 12 initial with tthat cam. your t staat might be too low what is your temp in town and at fwy speeds. this is why it runs cooler when it is moving. The camshaft is the heart of the engine and everything is based off of it. If those numbers are off, then nothing else matters. The only other thing I can think of is was the camshaft degreed when installed. When engine timing is too far advanced, you are, in effect, leaning out the engine. I believe the reason your engine is running hot at idle is because your engine timing is too far advanced. ![]() The rotor should be pointing at #1 tower on the distributor cap. Keep turning until the damper is at 0 on the timing mark. If you do have vacuum there then your idle speed screw is too far in, (throttle plates too far open).Īs far as the new damper being inaccurate, I would still rotate the engine until both valves are closed on the compression stroke of the #1 cylinder. Again, there should be little if any vacuum there. Try connecting the distributor vacuum advance canister to a source above the throttle plates. If the vacuum line is connected to a full time vacuum source, then your timing is already advanced as soon as you plug the vacuum line back in. The only reason why the line is disconnected and plugged while timing an engine is to ensure the vacuum advance does not play a role while adjusting the timing. There should be little if any vacuum going to the vacuum canister at idle, 3" at most. Most vehicles have the vacuum canister vacuum line connected to what is called ported vacuum or timed vacuum. My guess is the vacuum line is going to a connection on the carb that is below the throttle plates. I'm not sure why your timing would be advanced with the vacuum canister hooked up. I will turn the engine over tonight and see if the 0 mark is aligned with TDC and #1 rotor. I know I did not advance the timing chain when I installed it. The car starts immediately, doesn't seem to turn over hard at all. thermostat, new water pump, 3 year old champion alum. No issues when driving on hwy.Įlectric fan on a manual switch, 180 deg. The only time the car runs hot is when idling in traffic and when idling to set timing/idle mixture. Has been running hotter than usual, hard to say if its the outside temp or timing. 030 over flat top pistons with valve releifs. chamber, (part of the reason for my low CR). tests but using what I know about my setup and a CR calculator, my CR is pretty low, around 8 to 8.5:1Įdelbrock E-street alum, heads, 60 cc com. connected one time and the readings were off the damper marks completely. I accidentally checked the timing with the vac adv. I will check the timing again after work but everything I have been doing has been with vac adv. I did change my cam/timing chain a couple years ago but did not advance anything there. My total timing never exceeds 38 degrees and reaches total advance around 2500 rpm. btdc and it seems to run pretty well but still does not idle as well as when I am over 20 deg.Īm I nuts to run the car at 22-24 deg. From what I have read, too much initial can damage my motor so I don't want that but I would like the car to idle more smoothly and perform the best it can. The motor seems to really smooth out once I get up around 22 degrees btdc. The car still runs but has been running hot and does not idle very smoothly. ![]() Thinking this was too high for my initial setting, I dialed it back to around 12 degrees btdc. advance disconnected and plugged and was idling around 750 rpm. When I received my timing light, I checked my initial timing and it was around 22 degrees btdc. ![]() My timing was originally set by feel.I advanced the timing until it started pinging and then backed it off a little. Let me also say that I am running a new professional products harmonic damper. I have read hundreds of posts regarding intitial timing, total timing, advance curve, etc. I finally purchased a timing light and have been messing around with my timing settings this summer.
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